Panerai has launched their first watches in eSteel as one of the brands that is taking the sustainability issue seriously and implementing changes to watch composition that will gain the competitive advantage. Ultimately, their timepieces will rank among those “high-quality Swiss watches lasting generations (that) become the ultimate sustainable purchase”. Debbie Hathway explores further.
Almost 90% of executives believe that sustainability and supply chain transparency are important for the industry, and more than 50% of consumers surveyed for the Deloitte Swiss Watch Industry Study 2020 consider sustainability when purchasing a watch. While consumers are increasingly basing buying decisions on a brand’s green credentials, the Swiss watch industry also recognises its increasing importance across the value chain, from recycling/ upcycling materials, responsible sourcing and investigating animal product alternatives to reducing its carbon footprint.
First revealed at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2021, Panerai’s Luminor Marina now features the new eSteel dial, made from recycled steel and polished with gradient colour morphing from dark to light. These are the first Panerai timepieces to be produced in this material using a manufacturing process that vastly reduces (by four) the emission of CO2 common to conventional production methods.
“Thanks to the combination of recycled steel case, dial and recycled strap, we have been able to reach the impressive achievement of 58,4% of the watch weight made of recycled-based materials,” notes a Panerai press statement. In other words, 89 grams of the Luminor Marina eSteel’s total 152.4 grams watch weight comprises recycled-based materials thanks to the case and dial being made from the new steel alloy.
The creation of this material speaks to Panerai’s commitment to reduce the need for virgin material extraction, which has a high environmental impact. Its production is not short of challenges as the eSteel must still meet the rigorous demands of the steel cases that preceded it, from the physical structure to its all-important resistance to corrosion.
Beyond the pure technical challenges, Panerai’s production of eSteel requires “intense coordination” among all participants throughout. This was the first time that some of the brand’s partners had collaborated with a watchmaker.
Luminor has been one of Panerai’s most recognisable collections for more than 70 years. It was the first model to feature the patented crown-protecting device. And incorporating the recycled-based materials into the Luminor Marina eSteel will surely secure its desirability for decades to come.
Luminor Marina eSteel specifications
The watch is housed in a brushed case with polished bezel and rubberized crown. The eSteel logo is on the lever as well as the dial.
The polished dial reflects colours of the ocean that link to Panerai’s marine heritage: Blu Profondo (deep blue) and Grigio Roccia (rock carved by the sea) as well as Verde Smeraldo (emerald green). The latter is exclusive to Panerai boutiques and e-commerce. The dial colour gradient is notable for its shading from dark to light.
Panerai’s Calibre P.9010 automatic movement provides a three-day power reserve and enables a rapid adjustment system so that the hour hand can be moved forwards or backwards in one-hour intervals without affecting the minute hand.
The Panerai Luminor Marina eSteel is water-resistant to more than 300 metres deep.
The timepiece is attached to the wrist via a recycled textile strap that matches the dial colour, and fastened with an eSteel trapezoidal pin buckle. For extra versatility, an extra rubber strap is supplied. The watch and accessories are presented in a box made from recycled material.
Models: Luminor Marina E-Steel PAM1356 (Verde Smeraldo), PAM1358 (Grigio Roccia), PAM1157 (Blu Profondo)
Case: 44mm diameter, 15.45mm thick, in eSteel
Safety lock crown protection device
Dial: polished gradient eSteel with luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers, date at 3 o’clock and small seconds at 9 o’clock
Lens: sapphire crystal
Movement, entirely made by Panerai: automatic mechanical, Panerai P.9010, 6.0mm thick, 31 jewels, Glucydur balance, Incabloc anti-shock device, two barrels
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date
Power reserve: three days
Strap/ bracelet: recycled PET nylon with pin buckle, additional rubber strap
Water resistance: more than 300 metres
Recommended retail price: R125,306.00
The collection is only available at Panerai boutiques and online.
New partnership towards sustaining healthy oceans
Further to its ongoing contribution towards sustaining healthy oceans, Panerai recently announced a partnership with the Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission of UNESCO (IOC-UNESCO) to develop ocean literacy activities within the UN Decade of Ocean Science for Sustainable Development (2021-2030).
The partnership will see investment in resource creation and organisation of activities that will inspire people to be more responsible and more aware of the ocean, its plight, and the dire need for its preservation. The ocean is vulnerable to a multitude of environmental threats, mainly land- and human-based. Programme organisers intend to instil knowledge in an active community of ocean literacy professionals and communicators that will help transform and develop a more sustainable, equitable society.
The initiative aligns with Panerai’s rich marine heritage, which began with the development of navigation instruments for the Italian Navy. “Every member of our organisation, from our brand ambassadors to staff, will be engaged in this movement. Panerai has always been known for its pioneering role and we want to be one of the first watchmakers to increase awareness around this important topic and change the game. Our goal is to become a key player – not only an example for our competitors, but also for our suppliers, our customers and everyone involved with Panerai worldwide. As a company, we have the responsibility to be active, to support the urgent need for change, to help protect our planet, and to empower everyone to take direct action to take care of it. The more we can work together, the better,” says Panerai CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué.