This might be one of Sicily’s most glorious natural rock structures. On the south of the island near Agrigento is the moonscape of Scala dei Turchi (roughly translated to ‘Turkish steps’), a bone-white marl formation that has rippled into a wave-like shape after years of erosion from wind and sea spray. We suggest climbing up the side for the best views of the sparkling indigo sea and flanking sandy beaches.
This sleepy stretch of coast on the north-west side of the island, in the province of Trapani, is rocky and dramatic. It is this place that inspired Homer to write about the vast beauty of Sicily in The Odyssey. Historic tuna-fishing stations dating back to the 13th century dot the area, including the creamy pink museum-meets-inn Tonnara di Scopello, pictured. Turquoise and indigo-blue waters flood the surrounding bays, so it’s easy to spend long sun-kissed days stretched out on the rocks. It costs about £7 to enter this beach but the fee includes access to the museum, a tour and a sunlounger.
Lungomare di Cefalù, Cefalù
Just over an hour by train from Palermo, Cefalù is an idyllic spot for all-day bathing. This is a town beach, so it does fill up quickly but its golden sandy crescent blends beautifully with the dusty browns and whites of the historic buildings behind. Explore the narrow roads, little stores and gelaterias for a welcome afternoon respite from a day of sun.
Bue Marino, Favignana
On the Aegadian island of Favignana there’s a matrix of caves and quarries cut out from rows of golden tuff rocks. Named after the monk seals who used to reside here, Bue Marino is less a beach and more a stoney surface the locals come to dive off. Head here on a bike (one of the easiest modes of transport on the island) and follow the path to find secret caves to claim for the day.
Levanzo is the smallest of the Mediterranean’s three Aegadian islands. This sleepy seaside port is seriously picturesque – a cluster of blue-and-white houses hug the harbour dotted with fishermans boats. The beach here, Cala Dogana, is off the beaten track and tiny but warm waters in the summer mean you’ll be spending more time in them rather than out.
At the foot of Monte Monaco, a popular trail with hikers, is the tropical-looking San Vito lo Capo. The beach has an almost Brazilian feel with golden sand and shallow deep-blue waters, but the vendors who walk up and down all day selling fun floats and ice-cold granita remind sunbathers they’re in Italy.
It’s a quick drive along the coast from San Vito lo Capo to Caletta del Bue Marino, an off-radar, blink-and-you’ll-miss-it beach. There is no pressure here; it’s really the type of spot to stumble upon, have a swim, dry off in the sun and head on your way for lunch. It’s simplicity at best and completely quiet too.
A quiet and secluded hideout, this is another gem located near the Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro but just out of reach from the busy hiking trails and sun worshippers of Scopello. There’s a tiny wooden shack with tables for caffè freddo and gelato but note that you have to pay to park your car at the entrance to this beach.
Cala Mazzo di Sciacca, Trapani
Isola Bella, Taormina
Isola Bella is known as the Pearl of the Ionian Sea. A semicircular pebble beach just minutes from the hilltop town of Taormina (via cable car). Do as the locals do and rent a sunbed and come prepared with a snorkelling kit. The tiny isle is only accessible from the mainland by a thin strip of beach during low tide, but it’s where Sicilians take lunch breaks and aperitivo hours, so stake out a spot and grab a Negroni from the café-bars that line the seafront
Hike through dusty trails, tumbling greenery and rocky cliffs to reach the bright-blue waters of Sicily’s first nature reserve. The route is off-putting to some, but it’s worth persevering as only a few locals and visitors actually make it to the beaches. West of Palermo and east of Trapani, the sea here is crystal clear and ideal for paddling throughout the day. There are no shops, though, so come prepared – comfortable shoes, sun cream, Sicilian snacks and lots of water.
Just a 30-minute bus ride from bustling Palermo, Mondello has a long, half-moon-shaped beachfront with stretches of white sand. Colourful sun loungers and locals splashing in the waves is a common sight. It can be shoulder-to-shoulder during the height of summer, when it seems like the entire population of the capital migrates here for ferragosto, but it’s worth visiting for the Art Nouveau waterfront villas and striking rock cliffs that sandwich the shore.
